Plant a Flower—(Or Help Me, Please!)

Today is National Plant a Flower Day. Who knew? You'd think that someone like me—you know, the obsessive compulsive hoarder of seed catalogs—might have known about this all-important holiday before I checked Facebook this morning. How did I almost miss the celebration?

Fortunately, I'm prepared for any gardening emergency, especially one that involves celebrating flowers.

You see, once upon a time, in October 2011, a proclamation entered my in-box.

“Save 40%! All bulbs on sale!”

Suddenly, images of daffodils planted throughout the forest, rows of Casablanca lilies outlining the vegetable garden, and pots of amaryllis adorning every tabletop filled my brain.

We're talking about 40% off wholesale pricing, my friends.

Click. Click. Yes, please, add to cart.

Heirloom lilies? Well. I must add those. It would be sacrilegious not to grow them, given my heirloom plant business.

Click.

Fritillaria? Oooooh. I just saw a lovely bouquet a floral designer created that incorporated fritillaria.

Click. 

 

Tulips? Well, who can have just one variety when there are so many fabulous choices?

Click. Click. Click.

Consider mine a cautionary tale.

 

Twelve hundred bulbs later...

I've been planting the poor babies in waves, and I'm happy to report—the Ziva paperwhites are blooming their little heads off. The tulips that have made it into the beds are also doing well. I planted bulbs with the students in my son's first-grade class, and they've survived the extreme love of the 6-year-olds. (So far.) 

But—there are hundreds of potential blooms still asleep in their boxes.

Today, after I spend the morning in the greenhouse potting up tomatoes and peppers for clients, I will find a home for these poor, unfortunate bulbs who are withering away in the dark.

After all, it's National Plant a Flower Day.

I must do my part.

Happy Plant a Flower Day!

XO ~

Julie

A Tale of Two Apple Trees.

Saturday, we planted trees. Apple trees. To be more precise and risk sounding pretentious, we planted organic, heirloom apple trees.
 

I'm beyond excited.

I've coveted apple trees for awhile now. The thought of walking to the forest, plucking an apple, sitting by the river and eating a homegrown snack just sounds so...romantic. Plus, even our picky kiddos like apples. Honestly, who doesn't like apples? (Well, my niece does blow up like a balloon if she eats them, so I suppose we can count her out.)

Still, the dream of apples growing in our backyard seemed unrealistic.

Peter is an avid NPR listener. And on NPR, we have a terrific, local call-in gardening program, with experts from Clemson University's Home and Garden Information Center. During one of these segments, a caller asked about starting an apple orchard in our region. The hosts informed him that apples don't grow well in South Carolina, and he should pursue other ideas.

Our apple tree idea was—pardon the really bad pun—chopped down.

But then, last May when I was selling plants at the Slow Food Earth Market in Greenville, I had the pleasure of meeting Creighton Lee Calhoun, Jr. Mr. Calhoun's booth was next to mine, and he was promoting his book: Old Southern Apples: A Comprehensive History and Description of Varieties for Collectors, Growers, and Fruit Enthusiasts.

People were lined up, waiting for their turn to purchase this comprehensive tome of the pomme.

As I tagged plants and made change for customers, I told Mr. Calhoun of our apple plight and asked if he could recommend a variety that might do well in our garden. Mr. Calhoun devotes his life to pomology. I figured, if anyone knew an apple tree that could grow in our backyard—he was the man.

(Did you notice the inscription is written to Peter? I might have mentioned to Mr. Calhoun that my husband was a bit skeptical about growing apple trees after his NPR revelation.)

Finally, two weeks ago I ordered our Blacktwig apple trees from Trees of Antiquity. I adore this company's website. I felt like a kid in a candy shop—and could have spend a small fortune on fruit trees. But I resisted.

For now.

Sadly, our UPS guy didn't share the same reverence as I did for our apple trees. There's something—sacrilegious--about leaving Trees of Antiquity apples trees standing on their theoretical heads.

 

Fortunately, the company anticipated such treatment—the trees were well packed and unscathed by their upside down delivery.

The kids wanted to plant the trees immediately, but Peter needed to clear some space in the garden.

Both kids quickly adopted a tree—without any fuss. Truly, it's a testament to the company that they selected two trees that are compatible in shape and size. (And I'm a thankful mom that they did.)

Also impressive was the detailed instructions included with the shipment. Along with the trees, I decided to order a “starter kit” for each tree that included a tree guard, branch spreader, label, organic amendment, and humates. What can I say? After waiting this long for apple trees, I wanted to ensure the best start possible for them.

So, because it's almost spring and there's still time to plant fruit trees before the heat of summer makes planting rough not only on the gardener but also on the plants...here's a bit of information on how to plant an apple tree:

Selection

Choosing the variety you wish to grow is a personal preference, but it can also be based on climate, like with our selection. Do you prefer tart or sweet? Will you be eating fresh or cooking with the apples? And—does your tree need a buddy so it can be pollinated and produce fruit?

Any good catalog or website will give you specific information about the variety of apple you choose. For instance, here's what Trees of Antiquity showed about our selection:

BLACK TWIG
Arkansas 1868

“The ultimate in a tart apple. Fruit is medium to large with varying color, usually green to yellow skin that is streaked and flushed red. The yellow flesh is firm and fine grained with tannic juice that adds a kick to sweet or hard cider. Great for eating fresh or cooking, this apple is an excellent keeper and should be stored in the refrigerator for peak flavor.

Bloom: Late
USDA Zone: 6,7,8,9
Pollination: Required
Fruit Storage: Excellent
Mature Size: Medium
Ripens: Very Late
Uses: Fresh eating/ dessert, cooking (puree, applesauce, apple butter), juice/hard cider
Rootstock: Semi-dwarf
Size when shipped : 5/8 to 3/4 inch caliper (width around trunk)
Height prior to shipment: 6 ft.(trimmed to 5' when shipped)
Shape when shipped: Feathered (prominent side branching) and Whips (no branching)

Certified Organic

(Photo from Trees of Antiquity)

Size
If you hesitate to plant an apple tree due to space restrictions, you can find dwarf and semi-dwarf trees or train your tree into an espalier by pruning. You can also plant trees in containers, but you'll need to pay close attention to watering, as containers dry out quickly. Every two to three years, you will also need to replant the tree into a larger container with fresh soil and trim back some of the larger roots to ensure its health.

Our apple variety is grafted onto semi-dwarf root stock, which means the trees will reach an average height of 15 feet. The root stock helps control issues with pests and diseases. Dwarf root stocks typically grow 6-9 feet, which is ideal for containers or small areas.

After looking at different varieties, we took a family vote. Our green apple lover—who was outvoted—agreed that Blacktwig looked pretty delicious!

Site

Fruit trees require a minimum of 6 hours of sun daily. According to Trees of Antiquity, though, partial shade during the warmest hours of the day can improve the texture of apples, particularly in extremely hot climates like ours.


Our apple trees are surrounded by a forest, so Peter first prepped the site by cutting out dead trees and branches to ensure the apple trees would have adequate sun. We also battled some native vines that were overrunning the forest floor and cleared them out prior to digging the holes.

Planting

Peter dug holes slightly larger than the root system of the trees, and I added some finished compost into each hole. Don't add chemicals or fresh manure into the hole, as they can burn the tree roots.

We positioned the trees so that the graft line was about two inches above the soil surface, then filled the holes with the native soil, tamping down to avoid any air pockets.

Tree Guard

Because our trees are planted in the forest, we added tree guards to the trunks. The guards protect the trees from gnawing rodents, deer, and rabbits, plus it also prevents sun-scald. The spiral guard is perforated to prevent heat build up, and according to the directions, should be removed and reinstalled annually to prevent girdling.

The installation of the guard was easy—starting at the base, wrap upward to the first branch with the overlap of the spiral pointing upwards. Two minutes of time to install the guards, and they will hopefully keep our babies safe.

Watering/Fertilizing

I added more finished compost surrounding the trees, and our girlie spread the organic amendments around the trunk. The organic amendment was part of the “starter kit” I purchased. According to the information, it is certified organic and “...ready to provide the Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, and Calcium in plant available form. It is also alive with microbial life, humus, organic matter, humic acids, and more.”

In other words, good stuff!

In addition to the organic amendments, we also received a bottle of humates, which are comprised of humic and fulvic acids. These activate the availability of soil nutrients, mobilizing them for uptake by trees and plants.

And it is—whew—stinky.

We diluted the bottle of humates with a gallon of water, then watered the trees with it. (One gallon water and 4 tablespoons humates per tree.)

And finally, we added a layer of leaf mulch to the planting site.

Irrigation

Once the trees leaf out, they will require regular watering, at least twice a week throughout the first season. Always check the soil before watering, particularly with containers—which will most likely require daily watering.

And—that's it. Now, we wait.

Sunday morning, our girlie went out to the forest in her PJs to check on “her” tree.


The trees were still there, she reported. They hadn't walked away overnight. And they seemed "happy."

Now, I need to convince her to share "her" apples with us this fall!

Happy planting!

XO ~ Julie

Ready, Set...Grow!

I've been remiss. Lately, I've blathered on about winter blooms, eating more veggies, and assorted garden/life meanderings. It's time to get serious.

The countdown is on.

It's a mere 20 days until spring.

Yippee!

(And--eek!)

Hopefully, you've rested up over the winter, snuggled with your seed catalogs, and designed your dream garden.

Now, it's time to get to work.

For the next few weeks, we're going to be each other's support systems, OK? I'm up to my eyeballs in seedlings and plan to live in the greenhouse until all of the babies are potted up. (Wish we had installed a fridge and a potty in there, darn it...and I hope the kids remember who I am when I finally rejoin family life.)

Still, I'll try to share a few pre-spring gardening tips to help you get ready for the BIG DAY. If you'd do me a favor and stop by, say hi and check to see that I haven't been buried alive by the 160 varieties of tomato plants, I'd be really grateful. Right now, my sole greenhouse companions are old episodes of “30 Rock” on Netflix...on my phone.

I love Tina Fey.

Anyway, before we get busy, we need to determine exactly when your BIG DAY is.

And by BIG DAY, you might think I mean the First Day of Spring, which is, emotionally, such a relief after winter.

Actually, the BIG DAY that impacts everything you do in the garden is....

The LAST EXPECTED FROST DATE.

That just doesn't sound as sexy as “First Day of Spring,” does it?

So, let's acronym it: LEFD.

Hmmm. That's even less sexy, I think.

Still, LEFD is the most important date on your growing calendar. By determining when your area's last frost is projected, you can plan when to start seeds indoors, how soon you can sow seeds directly into your garden, as well determine when to set out hardy versus tender transplants. After all, we want to get a jump on spring without murdering our green babies with a bout of sub-freezing temperatures, right?

Recently, there's been much publicity about the USDA's new hardiness zone map. The map serves as a guide to help determine which plants are most likely to thrive in your location. 

 

The updated map redefined zones based on climate changes and temperature increases. My zone, 7b, remains the same—but just 30 minutes away, a friend's zone changed from 7b to 8a. You can enter your zip code here to find your zone. (Personally, I found the slight variations in colors a little challenging when looking for my zone.)

The map is a terrific resource when deciding which perennials are best for your area, but it doesn't provide the all important LEFD, which you need to know when planting a vegetable garden. Instead, the classic Old Farmer's Almanac goes high tech with this fantastic interactive chart. Simply enter your zip code and up pops a schedule outlining when you should plant specific vegetables according to your area's last expected frost.

For instance, the results for my zip code search indicate that there's a 50% chance of frost after April 4. Personally, I like to hedge my bets, so I never plant our warm weather crops until April 15. (Also, to be honest—I don't have time to plant our garden until the end of April, because I'm too busy getting plants ready for customers. Yet another example of the “Shoemaker's Children”...sigh.)

Once you determine your LEFD, you can pull out the plans for your amazing kitchen garden.Take a look at the list of plants you want to include, get your seeds packets (or hurry up and order!), and then start counting backwards from your LEFD. Some seeds are best started indoors. Some hardy plants can be directly sown into the garden prior to the last frost. And some need to be planted after the soil warms a few weeks following the LEFD. 

For your planting pleasure, here's a cheat sheet:

Seeds to Start Indoors Prior to LEFD (transplant after last frost)

Chives, Globe Artichoke, Leeks, Onions--12 weeks prior to last frost date

Celery, Lemongrass--10 weeks

Eggplant, Peppers, Tomatillo, Tomatoes--8 weeks

Asparagus, Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Basil, Fennel--6 weeks

Cucumbers, Melons, Okra, Pumpkins, Squash--3 weeks

Direct Seed in Garden BEFORE Last Frost (hardy plants)

Onion Sets, Seed Potatoes--6 weeks prior to last frost date

Kale, Kohlrabi, Spinach, Turnips, Mustard--5 weeks

Beets, Carrots, Chinese Cabbage, Endive, English Peas, Radish--4 weeks

Lettuce, Swiss Chard--2 weeks

Direct Seed in Garden AFTER Last Frost (tender plants)

Beans, Celeriac, Cowpeas--1-2 weeks after last frost date

Corn, Muskmelon, Watermelon, Okra--2 weeks

Pumpkins, Squash--2 weeks

Cucumbers, Peanuts, Amaranth--2 weeks

You probably noticed a few items, like cucumbers and okra, are listed twice--to start indoors or to direct sow after danger of frost has passed. By starting seeds indoors, you're getting a jump on the growing of some fruits and veggies that require a long growing season until harvest. (We'll chat about harvest schedules next time...)

So, are you ready? Do you have your seed starting mix and some trays? Have you divided your seed varieties into similar starting times? Do you have a good light source?

Are you ready to unleash the stars of your ideal kitchen garden?

Then—let's GO! It's time to start some seeds!

Have fun! Plant what you love! And—I highly recommend “30 Rock” reruns to keep you company. Laughter helps plants flourish...I'm sure I read that...somewhere.

Happy Almost-Spring Gardening!

XO ~

Julie