Prepping for Peeps (Or What to Expect When You're Expecting Chicks!)

(Oh, my poor, neglected little blog. How I've missed our quiet mornings and late nights, reminiscing about the crazy antics of the Adolf family. Soon, soon, we will again enjoy regular dates. I promise.)

Like any gardener knows, spring is a busy time. As any parent knows, spring is an insanely hectic time. Now, factor in a nursery business, plus a new garden addition and upcoming garden/farm tour, three kids and their myriad activities, school commitments...and my favorite season is gone in a blink of an eye.

Honestly, what happened to April? Helloooo? April? Where did you go?

I've been a bit sentimental about the passage of time lately. April is also the birthday month for Chicken Mama and Mikey. Truly, my babies are growing into independent young people too quickly. Just six months ago, Kristen still looked like a little girl, but now she's turned into a pre-teen, with long, long legs and sassy, cute outfits. 
 

(My sanity saver is that she's still climbing trees in her sassy outfits. And she just ripped one of those sassy shirts this afternoon while stuck on a branch. Yeesh.)

Plus, of course, she talks about chickens non-stop. I'm hopeful this trait will continue through her teen years, as the incessant chicken-chatter may deter the boys.

Honestly. The girl talks about chickens in her sleep.

I'm not kidding.

(She has been known to bark in her sleep, too.)

So, because I'm a firm believer in keeping kids busy with their interests so that they can't get into trouble, Chicken Mama is now a member of the 4-H Poultry Project.

She's beyond excited!

The 4-H Poultry Project is a terrific program developed for kids to teach them how to raise and care for a small flock of chickens. The 4-Hers raise day-old chicks to 24+ weeks for egg production. Then, at the end of the 24-week time period, the student selects his or her best pullet to be shown in competitions. Integral to the program is a project book, where the 4-Her records important information learned while caring for the flock.

Frankly, I think there should be an adult version of the 4-H program for all of the backyard chicken enthusiasts. While it's easy to impulsively stop in your local feed and seed during “Chick Days” and pick up a few fluffy lovelies, there's much to learn for the first-time chicken-owner.

Chicken Mama, of course, is an expert after raising her first flock of girls. She read more than a dozen books on raising chickens, pounces on Chicken magazine at Barnes & Noble, and is a constant member on the BackyardChickens.com forum (with my supervision, of course.) 

In fact, she was a guest panelist at our local “Green Screen” showing of Mad City Chickens, a movie featuring individuals who raise chickens within city limits. My little semi-shy girlie introduced the audience to Saltine, one of her new pullets, and answered questions from chicken-owner wannabes.

I was a proud mommy. 

And—I was amazed at the number of people who turned out to talk chickens! Who knew? Every seat was (eventually) filled.

Much like a Toddlers and Tiaras' mother, Kristen is prepping her new babies—Saltine, Sugar and Spice--for shows, one of the primary reasons she wanted to join 4-H. Among the materials she received from Clemson Extension as part of her 4-H kit is a guide to Poultry Showmanship.

But rather than focus on the showmanship aspect of chick rearing, I thought I'd share some of the more basic requirements: 

“What to Expect When You're Expecting” chickens.

Before becoming a chicken owner, consider:

What type of chicken will you raise?

Do you want eggs? Plan to have your chicken for Sunday dinner? Most backyard chicken enthusiasts opt for egg production. Still, depending on your needs, there are four types of chickens from which to choose:

Layers

These are your good egg-producing girls. The most popular and prolific layer is the Single Comb White Leghorn (ours is named Meggy.) That girl can lay some eggs—about one per day! However, there are numerous varieties to choose from, with our Ameraucanas producing the beautiful greenish-blue “Easter eggs.”

Fun fact: did you know that the color of the hen's earlobe will help you determine what color egg she will lay? A white lobe indicates a white egg layer, while a red-lobed girl will lay brown or colored eggs. (Now, you can astound your friends with chicken trivia!)

Meat Birds

Also known as “broilers” or “fryers.” Enough said. We don't raise those.

Dual Purpose

Varieties that are good for both egg laying and Sunday dinner.

Fancy (exhibition)

Personally, I adore these fluffy, frilly chickens! Feather pattern, comb types, skin color, plumage—these are the prima donnas of the chicken world, raised for beauty more than practicality. Bantams are about 1/3 the size of a standard chicken and are very popular in this category.

Once you determine what type of chicken you want to raise, the varieties are seemingly endless. 

Do you live in an extremely warm climate? Do you want birds that lay well so you can start a small egg selling business? Are you looking for a sweet pet for the kids? Kristen selected her girls by researching the various breeds she liked, then determining which ones had the attributes she wanted.

You can find information about breeds here. And, to make life even easier—do you know there's a “Pickin' Chicken” app offered by Mother Earth News?

Once you've selected your breeds, you need to determine where to find these perfect chicks. Mail order is very popular—but hatcheries typically require a minimum order of 25. A local breeder is ideal—but if you want only pullets (female chicks), make sure that breeder can determine the sex...which is no easy task. A few websites offer small orders due to the popularity of pet chickens.

We chose to use the resources of our local feed and seed. They order from the big hatcheries, and Kristen could select the breeds she wanted, with 98% confidence that they are pullets. (Please oh please oh please don't let us fall into that 2%!)

Honestly, can you imagine if one turns out to be a rooster?

Drama and trauma.

Home Sweet Home.

Your babies' first home is very important. During the chicks' early growth phase, they can't maintain proper body temperature without supplemental heat. They need a place that's warm, secure from drafts and predators.

They need a brooder.

A brooder can be as simple as a cardboard box with a cover and lightbulb. Our brooder is an old dwarf rabbit cage with a heat lamp attached to the top.

Temperature is critical during chick days. The Small Flock Manual provided by Clemson 4-H provides the following guidelines:

Age of Birds     Temperature

1 day                95 degrees

7 days              90 degrees

14 days            85 degrees

21 days            80 degrees

28 days            75 degrees

35 days            70 degrees

If your chicks are huddled together close to the light, it's an indication that the brooder isn't warm enough. Likewise, if they are at the far end of the brooder, away from the lamp—they may be too warm. Keep an eye on the temperature and adjust the height of your heat lamp as needed.

In addition to the heat lamp, you'll need to cover the entire floor of the brooder with litter, approximately four inches deep. Litter can be wood shavings, sawdust, peanut hulls, or pine straw. We use wood shavings, which then go into the compost pile.

Another benefit of chickens—a boost to the compost!

Meal time

...is all of the time. Make sure your chicks have food and water available at all times. The chick's body is more than 50% water, and it needs water for all body functions. Provide two, one-gallon water fountains for 50 chicks. Keep the water clean at all times. We have a smaller waterer, which is approximately a liter for three chicks—but which is cleaned and filled often.

Likewise, chicks grow quickly—and they need continuous access to food. 

In just two weeks, Saltine went from this...

...to this:

...the awkward teenage phase, where chickens show their true relationship to dinosaurs.

(And yes. That is a teddy bear in the brooder. Chicken Mama gave it to Saltine when she was in the brooder alone, before her sisters arrived. She was afraid she would be lonely.)

Begin by offering your chicks starter chick feed, which we buy at our feed and seed store. Depending on the number of chicks you raise, there are different feeder options. Ours is a simple metal, circular feeder with a lid and open feeding stations. (The lid helps prevent the chicks from using their feeder as a litter box.)

And—that's it! Well, at least for now. You're ready to welcome the arrival of your new babies!

(Later, we'll talk about the permanent coop and introducing the chickens to their new outdoor home.)

For now, enjoy your little peeps. Remember—the more that you handle them, the more tame they will become.

Just ask Chicken Mama.

Enjoy your babies--they grow so quickly. 

XO ~

Julie

A Tale of Two Apple Trees.

Saturday, we planted trees. Apple trees. To be more precise and risk sounding pretentious, we planted organic, heirloom apple trees.
 

I'm beyond excited.

I've coveted apple trees for awhile now. The thought of walking to the forest, plucking an apple, sitting by the river and eating a homegrown snack just sounds so...romantic. Plus, even our picky kiddos like apples. Honestly, who doesn't like apples? (Well, my niece does blow up like a balloon if she eats them, so I suppose we can count her out.)

Still, the dream of apples growing in our backyard seemed unrealistic.

Peter is an avid NPR listener. And on NPR, we have a terrific, local call-in gardening program, with experts from Clemson University's Home and Garden Information Center. During one of these segments, a caller asked about starting an apple orchard in our region. The hosts informed him that apples don't grow well in South Carolina, and he should pursue other ideas.

Our apple tree idea was—pardon the really bad pun—chopped down.

But then, last May when I was selling plants at the Slow Food Earth Market in Greenville, I had the pleasure of meeting Creighton Lee Calhoun, Jr. Mr. Calhoun's booth was next to mine, and he was promoting his book: Old Southern Apples: A Comprehensive History and Description of Varieties for Collectors, Growers, and Fruit Enthusiasts.

People were lined up, waiting for their turn to purchase this comprehensive tome of the pomme.

As I tagged plants and made change for customers, I told Mr. Calhoun of our apple plight and asked if he could recommend a variety that might do well in our garden. Mr. Calhoun devotes his life to pomology. I figured, if anyone knew an apple tree that could grow in our backyard—he was the man.

(Did you notice the inscription is written to Peter? I might have mentioned to Mr. Calhoun that my husband was a bit skeptical about growing apple trees after his NPR revelation.)

Finally, two weeks ago I ordered our Blacktwig apple trees from Trees of Antiquity. I adore this company's website. I felt like a kid in a candy shop—and could have spend a small fortune on fruit trees. But I resisted.

For now.

Sadly, our UPS guy didn't share the same reverence as I did for our apple trees. There's something—sacrilegious--about leaving Trees of Antiquity apples trees standing on their theoretical heads.

 

Fortunately, the company anticipated such treatment—the trees were well packed and unscathed by their upside down delivery.

The kids wanted to plant the trees immediately, but Peter needed to clear some space in the garden.

Both kids quickly adopted a tree—without any fuss. Truly, it's a testament to the company that they selected two trees that are compatible in shape and size. (And I'm a thankful mom that they did.)

Also impressive was the detailed instructions included with the shipment. Along with the trees, I decided to order a “starter kit” for each tree that included a tree guard, branch spreader, label, organic amendment, and humates. What can I say? After waiting this long for apple trees, I wanted to ensure the best start possible for them.

So, because it's almost spring and there's still time to plant fruit trees before the heat of summer makes planting rough not only on the gardener but also on the plants...here's a bit of information on how to plant an apple tree:

Selection

Choosing the variety you wish to grow is a personal preference, but it can also be based on climate, like with our selection. Do you prefer tart or sweet? Will you be eating fresh or cooking with the apples? And—does your tree need a buddy so it can be pollinated and produce fruit?

Any good catalog or website will give you specific information about the variety of apple you choose. For instance, here's what Trees of Antiquity showed about our selection:

BLACK TWIG
Arkansas 1868

“The ultimate in a tart apple. Fruit is medium to large with varying color, usually green to yellow skin that is streaked and flushed red. The yellow flesh is firm and fine grained with tannic juice that adds a kick to sweet or hard cider. Great for eating fresh or cooking, this apple is an excellent keeper and should be stored in the refrigerator for peak flavor.

Bloom: Late
USDA Zone: 6,7,8,9
Pollination: Required
Fruit Storage: Excellent
Mature Size: Medium
Ripens: Very Late
Uses: Fresh eating/ dessert, cooking (puree, applesauce, apple butter), juice/hard cider
Rootstock: Semi-dwarf
Size when shipped : 5/8 to 3/4 inch caliper (width around trunk)
Height prior to shipment: 6 ft.(trimmed to 5' when shipped)
Shape when shipped: Feathered (prominent side branching) and Whips (no branching)

Certified Organic

(Photo from Trees of Antiquity)

Size
If you hesitate to plant an apple tree due to space restrictions, you can find dwarf and semi-dwarf trees or train your tree into an espalier by pruning. You can also plant trees in containers, but you'll need to pay close attention to watering, as containers dry out quickly. Every two to three years, you will also need to replant the tree into a larger container with fresh soil and trim back some of the larger roots to ensure its health.

Our apple variety is grafted onto semi-dwarf root stock, which means the trees will reach an average height of 15 feet. The root stock helps control issues with pests and diseases. Dwarf root stocks typically grow 6-9 feet, which is ideal for containers or small areas.

After looking at different varieties, we took a family vote. Our green apple lover—who was outvoted—agreed that Blacktwig looked pretty delicious!

Site

Fruit trees require a minimum of 6 hours of sun daily. According to Trees of Antiquity, though, partial shade during the warmest hours of the day can improve the texture of apples, particularly in extremely hot climates like ours.


Our apple trees are surrounded by a forest, so Peter first prepped the site by cutting out dead trees and branches to ensure the apple trees would have adequate sun. We also battled some native vines that were overrunning the forest floor and cleared them out prior to digging the holes.

Planting

Peter dug holes slightly larger than the root system of the trees, and I added some finished compost into each hole. Don't add chemicals or fresh manure into the hole, as they can burn the tree roots.

We positioned the trees so that the graft line was about two inches above the soil surface, then filled the holes with the native soil, tamping down to avoid any air pockets.

Tree Guard

Because our trees are planted in the forest, we added tree guards to the trunks. The guards protect the trees from gnawing rodents, deer, and rabbits, plus it also prevents sun-scald. The spiral guard is perforated to prevent heat build up, and according to the directions, should be removed and reinstalled annually to prevent girdling.

The installation of the guard was easy—starting at the base, wrap upward to the first branch with the overlap of the spiral pointing upwards. Two minutes of time to install the guards, and they will hopefully keep our babies safe.

Watering/Fertilizing

I added more finished compost surrounding the trees, and our girlie spread the organic amendments around the trunk. The organic amendment was part of the “starter kit” I purchased. According to the information, it is certified organic and “...ready to provide the Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, and Calcium in plant available form. It is also alive with microbial life, humus, organic matter, humic acids, and more.”

In other words, good stuff!

In addition to the organic amendments, we also received a bottle of humates, which are comprised of humic and fulvic acids. These activate the availability of soil nutrients, mobilizing them for uptake by trees and plants.

And it is—whew—stinky.

We diluted the bottle of humates with a gallon of water, then watered the trees with it. (One gallon water and 4 tablespoons humates per tree.)

And finally, we added a layer of leaf mulch to the planting site.

Irrigation

Once the trees leaf out, they will require regular watering, at least twice a week throughout the first season. Always check the soil before watering, particularly with containers—which will most likely require daily watering.

And—that's it. Now, we wait.

Sunday morning, our girlie went out to the forest in her PJs to check on “her” tree.


The trees were still there, she reported. They hadn't walked away overnight. And they seemed "happy."

Now, I need to convince her to share "her" apples with us this fall!

Happy planting!

XO ~ Julie

The battle.

You plant. You water. You nurture. And when you're about to harvest, you find that the lovely lettuce you were craving for lunch is riddled with holes--eaten by a freeloader.

It's aggravating. It's irritating. If you garden with kids, factor in their disappointment, and truly—it's downright criminal.

So, what can you do to ensure that you reap the rewards of your gardening efforts?

The key to a successful, healthy garden is...

...vigilance.

Honestly, gardening is not for the faint of heart. You need to get down on your knees, turn over leaves, and look for the little nasties that can decimate your crops. A quick perusal of the garden isn't good enough—pests camouflage well for a reason, hoping they'll find a lazy gardener so they can feast to their hearts' content.

Trust me. I know.

Since most gardeners focus on summer crops, there seems to be better awareness of the interlopers that snack on tomatoes, squash, and corn. But with the increasing number of us who are trying our hands at fall and winter gardens, we need to know what foes we face in our battle for food.

(Dramatic pause.)

To help you identify what might be munching on your crops, I'm shamelessly borrowing a few images from the Clemson Extension website, with credit cited for the terrific photos. When you have a few free moments, which I know seems like an oxymoron, please take a look at the fantastic information on the Clemson site.  http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic (I'm a Master Gardener, and I visit it several times a month—it's a wonderful resource.)

For most of these pests, it's best to hand-pick them from the plants. (Truly, my 9-year-old daughter loves this task.)

Then, it's time to decimate them.

The means of their demise depends on your sensitivity and squeamishness. Poison? Not an option. Not only are you likely killing innocent beneficial insects, but you want to eat the lettuce, not glow from it. Squishing is quick and effective—but it's high on my “ick” factor. I typically drown pests in a bucket of soapy water. My daughter likes to throw them in the river behind our house to see what fish will eat them. Of course, for a serious infestation, there are plenty of organic pest controls on the market. Neem oil and insecticidal soap are good options—but read the labels carefully. I leave the decision to you.

Remember—not only are these pests masters of disguise...many are also tiny. Look carefully, and look often at your plants.

Without further ado, here are the villains of the fall/winter garden:

Cabbage Looper

David Cappaert, Michigan State University, www.insectimages.org

Look for pin-head sized eggs on the underside of leaves. When the larvae hatch, they are almost translucent but quickly become green as they grow, with white lengthwise stripes. The young larvae begin eating on the underside of the leaves. As they grow, they will move to the center of the leaves, eating between the veins. At maturity, they will be approximately 1-1/2 inches, and they move much like an inch worm.

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Cabbage Webworm

Alton N. Sparks, Jr., University of Georgia, www.insectimages.org

Look for eggs on the underside of leaves in the angle along the leaf stems.

Larval webworms are about ½ inch long when mature. They're grayish yellow and marked with five brownish-purple lengthwise stripes. Their heads are black and bear a V-shaped mark.

When they first hatch, larvae feed on either side of the partly folded leaves of the plant buds. After a few days, they begin to feed beneath a protective web made from silk-like threads that they form. Sometimes the larvae are found on the outer leaves or in the angle between the main plant stalk and the leaf. They can be detected by debris and webs at the point of feeding.

Cabbage webworms tunnel into and kill the buds of young plants.

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Cross-Striped Cabbage Worm

Clemson University USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series, www.insectimages.org

 
Look for light yellow, semi-transparent eggs in clusters of 20 to 30 on the undersides of leaves.

When first hatched, the larvae are gray. At maturity, they are about 3/5 inch long and have numerous horizontal black stripes across bluish-gray backs. Along each side of the back is a longitudinal black stripe and below that, a bright yellow stripe. The underside of the body is light green, mottled with yellow.

Cross-striped cabbageworms prefer the tender terminal buds and the heads of cole crop plants. Look for plants riddled with holes.

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Diamondback Moth Caterpillars

Russ Ottens, University of Georgia, www.insectimages.org

Look for single eggs or groups of two or three on the leaves. Eggs are small, nearly round and yellowish white.

The larvae are light green and pointed at each end, with tiny black hairs covering their bodies. They are about 1/3 inch long when mature and wiggle rapidly when disturbed, often dropping from the plant and hanging by silk-like threads. The larvae feed on all parts of the plant but prefer areas near the bud of a young plant, crevices between loose leaves of a firm head, and the undersides of wrapper leaves. Their feeding may disfigure the bud of a young plant.

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Imported Cabbageworm

Merle Shepard, Gerald R. Carner, and P.A.C. Ooi, Insects and their Natural Enemies Associated with Vegetables and Soybean in Southeast Asia, www.insectimages.org

Look for single eggs on either side of the leaves. Eggs are yellow, oblong, bluntly pointed at the ends, deeply ridged lengthwise, and attached to the leaf by one end.

Larvae are velvety green with a narrow orange stripe down the middle of the back and a yellowish stripe along each side of the body. When mature, larvae are about 1¼ inches long. Larvae are sluggish when disturbed.

Imported cabbageworms feed near the center of plants and do more damage to the cabbage head. They chew through leaves indiscriminately.

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Aphids

Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University, www.insectimages.org

Plants in all stages of growth can be covered with dense clusters of whitish-green aphids (plant lice.) Each aphid is the size of a pinhead. Aphids suck plant sap from the leaf, causing the leaves to curl and crinkle or form cups, completely lined with the aphids. In severe infestations, the plants wilt and die. The plants, if not killed, are dwarfed, grow slowly and form small, light heads.

To control aphids organically, spray Neem oil or insecticidal soap on the leaves. Make certain to coat both sides of the leaves, as well as spray in between any curled leaves.
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There you have it, my gardening friends, the “Wanted” posters for our kitchen garden enemies. I hope you win your battle against these foes and taste sweet victory in your  lettuce, cabbage, and broccoli.

To the victor goes the spoils! Enjoy!